The Legend of Baltimore Jack
Baltimore Jack, a beloved Appalachian Trail legend, died in May 2016
From: Outside Magazine
by: Dan Koeppel
Sep 5, 2019
The Legend of Baltimore Jack
When Baltimore Jack died near Franklin, North Carolina, the news
shook the Appalachian Trail community. Jack had left behind the real
world to live on the AT, thru-hiking it seven times and helping
countless others to reach their goals. To some, his choice to live
off the grid was irresponsible. Others celebrated that he'd managed
to break the shackles of convention. A look back on the life of an
AT antihero.
Baltimore Jack was dead. In a place where even the speediest travel
slowly, the word spread up and down the length of the Appalachian Trail
from Georgia to Maine in a matter of hours. It was May 4, 2016, and one
of the most beloved, brilliant, and exasperating antiheroes in the
history of long-distance walking was gone.
He was 57, and it was the beginning of his 21st year on the trail. Over
that time, he had become a sort of everywhere-at-once presence, bandages
wrapped around his battered knees, relying on snack cakes, lasagna, Jim
Beam, cigarettes, and the kindness of others to survive. It was a
kindness he usually returned.
His first year on the trail was in 1995. He would eventually thru-hike
the AT seven times. In 2003, after eight years of walking with what
was—according to nearly everyone who encountered him—a heavy pack,
Jack’s knees gave out. But even without being able to travel great
distances on foot, he stayed on the trail. For the next 13 years, Jack
flowed northward, catching rides or sometimes walking for a few miles
with other hikers, following them from hostel to hostel, town to town,
cooking them meals—his Thanksgiving feasts were legendary—rescuing them,
and becoming the trail’s most comprehensive repository of wild yarns and
unyielding opinion.
Everybody on the trail knew of him, yet very few people truly knew him.
He authored over 10,000 posts on the
influential White Blaze forum, an online clearinghouse for AT
information named after the color of the symbols that mark the trail,
and published an indispensable online guide on how to
resupply en route. But his real name, his past? The tales of his
exploits sometimes seemed to stretch as tall as the trees in the eastern
forests he’d made his home.
The best folks could do was piece his story together via his trail name.
Baltimore Jack took his handle from the first line of “Hungry Heart,”
Bruce Springsteen’s 1980 hit song: Got a wife and kids in Baltimore,
Jack. I went out for a ride, and I never went back.
The legend was that Jack had done the same, leaving a family for a life
on foot that rejected convention, while seeking a higher truth along a
dirt ribbon that winds through thousands of miles of forests, hills,
meadows, and mountains.
I didn’t know him as Baltimore Jack. I was at Hampshire College in
Amherst, Massachusetts, with him from 1979 to 1983, where I called him
by his given name, Adam Tarlin. We worked on the school newspaper
together, me as the editor, Adam as a writer. He was four years older
than me—at Hampshire, an experimental institution founded in the 1960s,
it wasn’t unusual for a student to stay for years—and one of the most
interesting people at school. I would go so far as to call him a genius,
but we clashed a lot, mostly over my edits of his contributions to the
paper. Adam’s writing style was eviscerating but in a special way: you
could see his passion and you liked him, even as he cut you down.
When I graduated in 1983, it was a rainy day, and I remember seeing Adam
outside the auditorium in his usual dark trench coat. He shook my hand,
and I never encountered him again. I never learned that in a year, he’d
be married. That he’d have a daughter. That he’d leave soon after that.
That he’d struggle for a decade, only to resurface one day at a
trailhead in Springer Mountain, Georgia—the AT’s southern terminus—and
sign “Baltimore Jack” to the register.
I’d heard about Baltimore Jack from a close friend who had walked the AT
a number of times. It was only after Jack’s death, in a
strange coincidence, that I learned through my college alumni magazine
that Baltimore Jack and Adam Tarlin were the same person. The
information came in the form of an obituary.
Some pre-Jack friends saw Adam as irresponsible, a person who’d
abandoned his family to indulge himself. But many of the friends who
only knew him as Baltimore Jack viewed him as noble, somebody who’d done
what he had to do to save his own life, whose philosophy could be summed
up with a story he told a television-news interviewer in 1998, just as
he was about to reach the 5,269-foot summit of Mount Katahdin, the AT’s
end point in Maine. Jack was talking about an encounter he’d had with a
gentleman who’d never heard of thru-hiking. The man had peppered Jack
with questions about logistics, mileage, and bear attacks, then finished
up with a more basic query: “What do you do in the real world?” Jack’s
reply: “In the real world, I hike.”
Baltimore Jack on the summit of Maine’s Mount Katahdin in 1996 (/Photo:
/ Erika Tarlin)
Jack would stay on the trail all season, working odd jobs, sleeping
where he could. In winter he’d return to a small shack in New
Hampshire—he liked the state’s independence and proximity to the
woods—where he’d brave the cold and save the little money he earned as a
convenience-store cashier for next year’s walk. After retiring as a
thru-hiker, Jack’s physique changed from the can’t-get-enough-calories
frame of a long-distance athlete to, by the end, somebody who looked
tired and overserved. By 2015, his trail friends, as well as a few who’d
resurfaced from his previous life, were urging him to seek medical help.
He never did.
One of those friends, Bob Peoples, who owns the Kincora Hiking Hostel in
Hampton, Tennessee, says, “I asked him to slow down, to get help.”
Peoples is a former Air Force officer, and when we spoke, his tone was
reserved and factual. But as he reminisced about Jack and his declining
health—the drinking, the weight gain, and an obvious sense that he was
unwell—his voice softened. “I said, ‘Jack, this is going to kill you.’
And he looked up.”
Peoples paused. “Do you want to know what he said? His answer was: ‘So?’”
It was a grim hint at what would happen two years later, when Baltimore
Jack collapsed at a thru-hiker hostel in Frankin, North Carolina. (The
hostel has since been renamed in Jack’s memory.) He was rushed to the
nearest hospital. The cause of death was suspected to be a pulmonary
embolism.
“One fine day in my thirties,” Baltimore Jack told the
Pox and Puss thru-hiking
podcast in 2013, “I decided I wanted to hike.”
Jack didn’t mind letting people assume he came from the Maryland city.
Had he been in the military, as evidenced by the dog tags he wore? “He
never claimed to be, but if it added to his mystery, people could think
what they wanted to,” says Michael Sisemore, a former Army Ranger who
walked with Jack on his 1999 hike and lived with him the following three
off-seasons. Had he held a high-powered job as a media executive or
newspaper reporter before dropping out and onto the trail? No, but he
did work the counter at a video store in Boston, where he was well loved
by customers for his obsessively deep knowledge of film, the same way
he’d ultimately be regarded for his trail expertise. Did he really
discover a dead body in a flophouse turned hostel in Pennsylvania? Yes,
but the story has been repeated so often by other hikers that it’s hard
to know which version is accurate.
In college, we called him Adam. His full name was Leonard Adam Tarlin.
The name Leonard came from his father, who Adam often described as
Harvard faculty. (He wasn’t; he worked as a department-store buyer most
of his life but by all accounts possessed a formidable intellect.) In
the years between college and hiking, almost as if he was working toward
abandonment of his birth persona, it appears that Adam began referring
to himself as L.A. Tarlin, then Baltimore Jack Tarlin, and finally, to
most, just Baltimore Jack.
One of the stories repeated in college was that Adam’s volatility, and
possibly his drinking, was the result of losing both parents in a car
accident when he was very young. It wasn’t true. The reality, though,
was painful enough. His mother, Jeanne, died of cancer when Adam was
nine. Adam had three sisters. Erika was two years older than him, and
the other two were in their late teens when their mother was stricken.
That left his father to raise the children alone, as an overwhelming
sadness settled over their Brookline, Massachusetts, home. “Our
childhood was smashed,” Erika told me when I met her last year in
Boston. “We didn’t have anything to look back at with nostalgia even,
because it all just felt sad.”
Adam transformed from a cheerful student to a teen who didn’t mind
receiving poor grades in classes that didn’t interest him. Happy moments
with family felt rare, Erika says, but what existed often centered
around hiking. The Tarlins explored the forests of New England. Those
explorations led his father to promise his son that one day the two of
them would walk the Appalachian Trail. It didn’t happen. Just before
Adam’s high school graduation, his father died of a heart attack.
The Appalachian Trail was a very different place in 1995, the year
Baltimore Jack first set out. The route was more sparsely used, a rugged
thoroughfare stretching an intimidating distance.
For the first four decades of the AT’s existence, the idea of traveling
it all in one season remained obscure. Up until the 1980s, about 20
people did it each year. Those numbers rose significantly during the
1990s, but the trail’s emergence as a pop-culture bucket-list item
became a thing in 1998. That was the year Bill Bryson’s /A Walk in the
Woods
/appeared. Though Bryson and his hapless buddy never completed their
hike, the idea of an end-to-end epic gained public traction, and the
number of annual completions has grown steadily ever since, reaching
beyond 1,000 (out of more than 3,000 attempts each year). Three million
people walk some portion of the route each year, according to the
Appalachian Trail Conservancy.
Bryson’s take on thru-hiking made it seem like a jaunt. A more relevant
reference for Jack is Cheryl Strayed
’s 2012
memoir /Wild/, which chronicles her 1995 attempt on the Pacific Crest
Trail. /Wild/ represents what has always been a powerful motivation for
on-foot completionists: redemption. In the tradition of Earl Shaffer—who
in 1948 was the first person to complete the AT, walking it to escape
memories of World War II—Strayed tackled the PCT after the death of her
mother, a divorce, and a descent toward drug addiction. “The hike,” she
told /Vogue/ in 2012
,
“was a really great chance for me to think through every aspect of my life.”
On some level, the tediousness of walking from dawn to dusk makes the
crucible of self-reflection inevitable, even as the AT and other
long-distance trails attract idealists, drifters, and the occasional
unstable or homeless person with no other place to go—or at least no
seemingly better place to go. On a do-it-yourself, 200-mile foot journey
across Australia’s Nullarbor Plain in 2010, I couldn’t avoid exploring
my own dark places. One of the first people I met said to me, “You must
have something to atone for.” He was right; I’d hurt somebody badly,
destroying something important to them.
“Most people show up on the trail when they’re in transition,” says
Lawton Grinter, one of Jack’s friends and a three-time AT finisher.
“You’re trying to become the person you always wanted to be.”
After his father’s death, Adam often landed at the doorstep of a
classmate, Elaine Kaplan. She lived in a house on the other side of town
from the Tarlins’ apartment. “With his parents gone, he spent a lot of
time with us,” says Kaplan, now an educational administrator in
Cincinnati. And there was something special about Adam. “We wanted to
take care of him,” she recalls.
Adam soon confessed his life’s dream to Elaine. It had nothing to do
with the outdoors. “He was going to live in England,” she says. Adam had
a passion for British history. But there was also something troubling:
how the most fun and lighthearted conversations and moments Elaine had
with Adam, who would become her boyfriend by their senior year of high
school, occurred when Adam was drinking. “He was the only teenager I
ever knew who carried a flask,” Elaine says. “I think drinking was his
way of coping.”
When Elaine was accepted to Amherst College, Adam chose to attend
Hampshire College, just a few miles down the road. The educational
institutions couldn’t be more different. Amherst is steeped in
tradition. Hampshire is an educational experiment—independent study and
no grades—where students are sometimes described as underachievers. (I
had that box checked by high school guidance counselors.)
As the school newspaper’s editor, I remember often being fed up by
Adam’s argumentative nature, his cruel barbs, and his gleeful
willingness to play the villain. I also remember that it was hard to
stay mad at Adam. His intelligence and charisma always lured you back.
Those qualities were especially on display with women. At a college
where tie-dye was considered couture, Adam set himself apart in dark
glasses, a leather jacket, and black leather gloves. He stood almost six
feet tall, with strong features and a mane of tight brown curls. “He was
good-looking and charming,” Elaine says. “There was a lot to like.”
By their sophomore year, Adam and Elaine had broken up. Adam stayed
platonically close to Elaine’s roommate, Sharon Miller. Adam’s
friendship with Miller became one of the few that threaded into the
Baltimore Jack era, and she was one of the people to whom Adam could
expose his deep sense of loss. “He never really got over it—his parents,
Elaine,” says Sharon, who now lives near Albany, New York, and works as
a psychotherapist.
As college ended, Adam and I had a falling out over the school paper. In
1982, he dropped out of school, just as I was entering my senior year. I
was living off campus in Northampton, and I’d often see Adam at
Packard’s, the town’s primary watering hole.
One of that year’s biggest media events was a made-for-TV special called
/The Day After/, a docudrama about the horrors that would befall America
after a Soviet nuclear strike. There were viewing parties everywhere,
and Adam showed up to one on the Smith College campus, at the west end
of town.
A graduate student named Allegra Brelsford noticed him, and after the
movie ended, the two went for a walk. “We hit it off,” says Allegra, now
a well-regarded artist based in New York City who specializes in making
quilts. “He was smart and good-looking, and he did /The/ /New York
Times/ crossword puzzle in pen.”
The couple married in June 1984 and had a daughter, Jillian, in January
1985. Allegra was finishing graduate school. Adam wasn’t working and was
still drinking. Though he clearly loved his daughter—Allegra told me how
tenderly Adam held his infant child—the family split up within a year.
“After that,” Allegra says, “he lost touch very quickly.” In the coming
years, Adam would make occasional attempts to contact his daughter for
key life events. He hitchhiked off the trail to attend Jillian’s high
school graduation party. In late 1989, Allegra remarried, and for all
practical purposes, her current husband—they have a son as well—has
acted as Jillian’s father.
Allegra says that she has no ill will toward Adam: “He had all these
things he did in order to have an identity, but no matter what, there
was that vulnerability, his heart. It was hard to be angry.”
As for Baltimore Jack, he didn’t see his exit as an exact analog for the
lyric that inspired it. “[The song] would lead people to think that I
walked out on my wife and kid, which I can assure you is not the case,”
Adam said in the
Pox and Puss podcast. “No,” Adam continued.
“She walked out on me for ten thousand excellent reasons.”
“I’ve led the type of life that does not discourage outrageous
storytelling,” Baltimore Jack told Pox and Puss. That’s basically true,
but there’s a huge gap—between the end of his marriage and his
appearance on the Appalachian Trail a decade later—where it is hard to
determine what Adam was doing. One of our mutual classmates is a woman
named Leslie Magson. She grew up with Adam, attending the same high
school, and postcollege she rented Adam a room in her Beacon Hill
apartment. Adam was working as a clerk at the gigantic Tower Records
store in Boston, where he became well-known for his spot-on movie
recommendations. Despite being employed, he fell behind in the rent.
Several months in arrears, Leslie and Adam had a confrontation in the
lobby of the music shop. A few hours later, Adam showed up with money
and Leslie evicted him. What did Adam take away from the incident? Based
on his actions and the nomadic lifestyle he began adopting after that,
one thing seems likely: Adam decided he’d never pay rent again.
By the 1990s, Adam was living in Hanover, New Hampshire. The town is
significant for being the home of Dartmouth College, for having a major
nearby medical center, and for the Appalachian Trail, which hits Hanover
at mile 1,748. Adam’s reason for living there, he told one friend, was
that it had the best library on the trail.
There’s no specific incident that documents why Adam decided to go
walking. But there’s no doubt he encountered thru-hikers in Hanover. He
worked at Stinson’s, a small convenience store in town. The job provided
just enough to live on, so Adam found a bed in a ramshackle cabin on a
wooded, 38-acre property owned by a carpenter named David Vincelette. It
was a short walk from town, and if you’re going from Stinson’s to
Vincelette’s, just after you pass the local food co-op, you’re actually
hiking a section of the AT.
Did seeing the trail give Adam a daily reminder of his father’s promise?
I like to believe that it did, but I’m not so certain that Adam’s
initial attempt to walk the route falls neatly into the
self-transformative Cheryl Strayed model. I think his foray into
thru-hiking may have been a result of need. After a year, Vincelette
didn’t charge Adam rent; instead, payment came in the form of chopping
wood. “I didn’t see him as a worker,” Vincelette, who still lives in
Hanover, told me. “I saw him as a talker. But he ended up being both.
He’d educate me on European history, and I’d educate him on how to cut a
board.”
With his limited funds, Adam must have realized he’d be better off
saving paid-for lodging until winter, when it would really be necessary.
In the summer, he didn’t need a roof over his head. In April 1995, Adam
thumbed a series of rides along Interstate 95, finally arriving in
Georgia, where he made his way to the southern end of the Appalachian
Trail. With his father’s dog tags around his neck, carrying a 60-pound
backpack, Adam Tarlin stepped onto the footpath—and into a new self.
The basic outlines of Baltimore Jack emerged very quickly that year. His
pack became notorious, the heaviest items in it books—he’d never lighten
them by tearing pages out—along with liquids: “He’d always send himself
several bottles of Jim Beam so they’d be waiting for him at
resupplies,” says Wayne Lummis, who walked part of the trail with Jack
in 1995.
Lummis describes Jack as admirably true to the spirit of thru-hiking:
“Sometimes I’d see him, and he’d be covered in bruises, because he
insisted on rigorously following the white blazes. If that meant
crawling under a fallen tree, he’d do it.”
All that determination, though, didn’t lead to a complete thru-hike in
1995. As Jack approached the trail’s homestretch—Maine’s Hundred Mile
Wilderness, which leads to the summit of Mount Katahdin—he was injured
in a fall. He limped back to Hanover, healed up, and spent the winter
bagging groceries.
Adam Tarlin always found a way to fascinate women and evoke a genuine
protective instinct in them. It made sense. He’d lost his mother early,
so figuring out how to receive the nurturing he’d missed was an
essential skill. I’d see it when Adam met girls at college parties: he’d
listen intensely, fixing his gaze to theirs, instead of just trying to
hook up. The women who loved Jack, platonically or romantically, truly
loved him. There’s nobody who represents that friendship better than Jen
Whitcomb.
It was late fall of 1996. Jack, who was 38 years old at the time, had
spent the summer working at Bascom Lodge, off the AT near Williamstown,
Massachusetts. It was an early preview of his post-hiking life—he loved
to help, according to his friend Andy Somers, who had hiked in 1995 with
him—and as the season ended, Jack completed the Maine section he’d
missed the previous year, getting credit for a section hike. Back in
Hanover, he was living with other tenants at Vincelette’s place, and the
weather was getting cold. Whitcomb was 18 years old, 20 years younger
than Jack, and had just entered Dartmouth.
It was a great school, but at first it didn’t feel like a good fit for
her. Whitcomb had just graduated from a pressure-cooker high school in
Virginia and was struggling to balance a heavy class load and a
part-time job during her first term. “I realized I needed to hit the
brakes on academics and take a different challenge,” she tells me. The
AT’s white blazes were a block from her dorm.
As she spoke to her friends about a hike, one piece of advice kept
coming up: talk to Baltimore Jack. “Everybody said he knew everything
about the trail,” Whitcomb recalls, “so I approached him at a coffee
shop and said, ‘I want to go hiking.’”
Baltimore Jack with Jen Whitcomb and her baby at Harpers Ferry, West
Virginia, in July 2015 (/Photo: / Jen Whitcomb)
“I can help you,” he told Whitcomb, sweeping aside a pile of library
books and offering her a seat. Over the next two months, the two planned
their separate 1997 hikes. Whitcomb set out on the trail that March, a
couple of weeks before Jack. He caught up with her in Hot Springs, North
Carolina, as she rested there with a sprained foot. They spent the next
1,000 miles trekking within a day of each other. “He had a very detailed
knowledge of the trail, told great stories, and threw insults better
than anyone I’d ever heard,” Whitcomb recalls.
On August 20 of that year, signing off with the transitional moniker
L.A. “Jack” Tarlin, he reached Katahdin. Whitcomb had finished her walk
just before reenrolling at Dartmouth. Jack, without a place to stay, and
Whitcomb, by now used to a lifestyle of crowded shelters and
dirtbagging, had no hesitation about inviting her friend to live in her
dorm room. “I put my bed up on cinder blocks, and he slept underneath,”
Whitcomb says. “I know it was weird to have an almost 40-year-old man
bunking below me, but he was never inappropriate. He looked out for
me, and occasionally bought booze for the other kids on my floor, and
helped them with their history papers.”
Over and over again, I heard how kind and caring Jack was, especially
toward young women. I asked Whitcomb if she thought Jack was trying to
compensate for not being present to raise his biological daughter. “He
was always showing me pictures of Jillian,” Whitcomb says. “And then
he’d say, ‘I’ve got a perfect daughter in Vermont who I’m not fit to
raise. She has a better father now.’”
Whitcomb graduated from Dartmouth, joined the Coast Guard, and moved to
the West Coast, where she’d eventually start a family. Jack returned to
the trail. As the new millennium dawned, he settled into a persona that
he’d more or less hold to for the rest of his life. Baltimore Jack was a
happier, more purposeful version of Adam, but he was still capable of
making friends and enemies.
On the White Blaze forums, posting under the username Jack Tarlin, he
recommended "Walking with Spring", Earl Shaffer’s account of his pioneering 1948 thru-hike. Shaffer, like
Jack, was a romantic.
When he was actually walking, Baltimore Jack’s stories seemed to swing
from the outrageous—like the dead body he found at the Doyle Hotel in
Pennsylvania, whose cheap rooms and beer made it a thru-hiking
landmark—to genuine heroics, like the time he gently carried a hiker
with a broken leg a mile and a half to safety, waiting for an ambulance
when they finally reached the road, then quickly disappearing back into
the woods.
Part of Jack’s mission, it seems, was to deflate those who wanted to
make the trail so sacred—or worse, so athletic—that ordinary folks would
feel excluded. To a White Blaze commenter who questioned the nutritional
value of Pop-Tarts as trail food, Jack countered: “Pop Tarts are a
perfectly sensible thing for folks to eat at breakfast time.” Jack
recommended at least four per meal. He began keeping what was, for
almost a decade, an essential trail reference. Posted annually on White
Blaze, “Jack’s Resupply Guide”//was, in the days before smartphones, a
voluminous survival handbook, listing everything from guesthouses to
post offices to taverns. It was written in Jack’s particular prose
style, with a clear nod to his “keep it fun” outlook: “This is NOT
intended to be a blue-print, framework, or manual for anyone to plan
their hike by,” says the guide’s introduction. “There is no one ‘right’
way to hike the A.T….no one ‘right’ way to re-supply yourself. Something
like 9,500 men and women have hiked the A.T. in its entirety, and no two
have done it the same way. It’d be presumptuous in the extreme for
anyone to claim that there’s only one way to plan or execute your hike.
There isn’t.” Jack’s downloadable guide was free. His only attempt to
profit from the trail was to sell T-shirts emblazoned with the phrase
“Bill Bryson Is a Candy Ass.” Those who’ve seen his annotated version of
/A Walk in the Woods/—it went missing after Jack’s death—say that it’s a
hilariously devastating companion to the book.
As common sense as his outlook seems, it contained a hidden subtext—it
was an attack on those who took the trail too seriously, who appointed
themselves gatekeepers. Among these, in Jack’s view, was another trail
legend, Warren Doyle.
Doyle, 69, has walked the entire trail 18 times, nine of them as a
thru-hiker. He currently runs what amounts to a long-distance-walking
training facility in Mountain City, Tennessee. Study with the
Appalachian Trail Institute, Doyle says, and your chances of completing
a thru-hike increase from under 25 percent to over 75 percent.
Doyle’s disciplined approach rankled Jack, and Jack’s party-on-foot
demeanor sat poorly with Doyle. Such philosophical conflicts aren’t
unusual. But the fight between Jack and Doyle got personal. “They were
bitter enemies,” says Bill O’Brien, former president of the Appalachian
Long Distance Hiker’s Association , a group Doyle
founded.
When I spoke to Doyle, he lumped Baltimore Jack with several others,
including Cheryl Strayed, who seek the trail as a means of healing.
“It’s something I wish wouldn’t happen,” Doyle told me, “People love
train wrecks.” (Doyle’s objection, he says, is that such people get “an
inappropriate amount of publicity.”)
Doyle also holds Jack responsible for the emergence of a sort of
clannishness on the trail—Jack’s tribe was a loose group of a few dozen
buddies called Billville, after a name embroidered on a thrift-shop
shirt that one of the hikers wore—that he says is the real source of
exclusionary attitudes and division on today’s AT and far from being an
advocate of “hike your own hike.” Despite that mutual enmity, it seems
to me that Doyle and Jack, who met a few times over the years, agreed on
more than they thought. Both are literary minded. Both saw the trail as
something more than just a walking route. Both viewed it with a respect
and an intensity so extensive that, in full circle, the two end up
occupying the same role: defenders of hiking’s most celestial institution.
One of the most repeated depictions of Jack involves his knees. He’d
appear on the trail wrapped in filthy bandages, as if he were emerging
from an accursed sarcophagus. Early on, Jack was a strong hiker, capable
of 20 miles a day with his massive pack, but by 2003, after his final
thru-hike, his knees were bad enough that he could no longer walk great
distances. He still looked physically healthy—he was trim and muscular,
with his body showing no outward effects of drinking and smoking—but he
was ready to abandon the idea of fully completing the trail every time.
In February 2003, Jack announced on the White Blaze forum that for the
upcoming season, he’d be on the trail in a different capacity: “Hope to
get some trail work done,” he wrote. There’d be a little walking: Jack
would go “as far as I feel like.” How far? “It’s anyone’s guess,” he
concluded.
You’ve probably heard the term trail angel. That’s a person who isn’t
hiking themselves but who provides a service, usually as a volunteer and
sometimes for a donation. That might mean somebody who gives a hiker a
lift to a hostel down the road, or cooks up a trailside meal, or
routinely offers a reliable source of water or a place to retrieve
packages. In recent years, some trail angels have formalized their
roles; among the most famous is Janet “Miss Janet” Hensley, who offers
hiker shuttles up and down the AT. (Hensley and Jack were close,
according to nearly everyone I spoke to; I reached out to her for
comment on this story but was never able to connect.)
Jack’s support as a trail angel quickly became as notable as his hiking.
Following the wave of hikers heading north, Jack would plant himself for
a bit at one hostel, then the next. He gained fame for his lasagna
suppers, which he’d cook for dozens at a time. Ironically, for somebody
known as a heavy-pack enthusiast, he was also in demand for shakedowns,
an aggressive culling of newcomers’ overly laden loads. More than that,
by actually living on the trail, Jack became, arguably, something
unique: a hobo ambassador who was the AT’s living, breathing, ambulating
encyclopedia.
One of the places where Jack spent the most time was the Kincora Hiking
Hostel, near Hampton, Tennessee. Owner Bob Peoples had completed a
section of the trail once and found the experience so meaningful that he
devoted his retirement to serving hikers. The latter-day Jack became a
Kincora fixture. “He’d clean, he’d cook, he’d entertain a mob,” Peoples
says.
Peoples has a different insight into Jack’s world, because he also acted
as his financial adviser. Occasionally, there’d be a tax refund or
paycheck for Leonard Adam Tarlin. The problem was that Jack was no
longer L.A. Tarlin. “He had no bank account and no ID,” says Peoples.
So Jack signed over his checks to Peoples, who deposited them and then
doled out the money to him over the winter: “It was a budgeting thing,
too. He’d have spent it all, otherwise.”
“On what?” I asked.
“He’d have given it to other hikers,” Peoples says.
Such saintly behavior aside, one part of Jack that was becoming less
sanctified was his body. Thru-hiking had masked how unhealthy he
actually was. Now Jack began to put on weight, a process that
accelerated after he quit smoking.
Photos of Baltimore Jack starting in the late 2000s show a person who is
unrecognizable from the handsome, slick Adam I knew. But Jack made the
change part of his legend; strangers began to offer tributes of whiskey
and Little Debbie snack cakes, bringing them directly to Jack or leaving
them on the trail with notes. There was a cultish aspect to the hero
worship. Suddenly, Jack was infallible. True friends saw Jack as he was
and tried to help him. But they were in the minority.
At the start of this decade, the worlds of Adam Tarlin and Baltimore
Jack suddenly collided. That’s because old friends began finding him, as
old friends do, on the internet. What they saw was astonishing. “I’d
lost touch with Adam over the years,” says college friend T.J. Mertz.
But a search of Appalachian Trail message boards led Mertz to Adam, who
by then had become Baltimore Jack.
“I can see that he was able to find a place where he was free, where he
was able to rely on his wits and his intelligence. But he also didn’t
take responsibility, and I’m not trying to be judgmental—part of me,
sitting here with a mortgage and two kids, admires what he did—but I
want to ask: Was what he did incredibly selfish?”
Those who only knew Baltimore Jack were also asking questions. Jen
Whitcomb, stationed in Seattle with the Coast Guard, was trying to get
Jack to admit he needed help. At one point, she even offered to marry
him, on paper, so he could get health insurance. Jack’s reply: “I can’t
do that to you.” When Whitcomb got married herself in 2012, she called
up and down the trail to locate Jack and invite him. She offered to buy
him an airline ticket. But Jack had no identification, so he couldn’t
travel. Instead, Jack posted a picture from Whitcomb’s wedding on
Facebook; in it, the bride and groom are ecstatic. Jack’s caption: “Just
wanted to share a photo from a recently married friend. Some of you may
remember Jen Whitcomb, Yahoola, A.T. 1997, the greatest woman hiker of
all time!”
But Whitcomb didn’t want praise from Jack. She wanted him to get better.
“It was hard to see him wasting away,” she says. “He was visibly declining.”
Whitcomb found herself thinking the unthinkable. “I remember telling a
friend,” she recalls, “that if he dies, I hope he drops on the trail.
Wasting away in the hospital would kill him twice.”
There was one final, near miss effort to help Jack clean up. It came
through his old friend Sharon Miller. Her view of Adam was probably more
realistic than what others saw.
“He was, essentially, homeless,” Miller says. “And he owned that. He
told me that he didn’t stay on the trail for some noble reason, but
because people took care of him. ‘They feed me,’” she recalled him
saying. “‘I don’t have money for food.’”
Miller says she wanted Jack to sober up. She bought him a T-shirt that
not-so-subtly encouraged him to embrace who he really was; it was
emblazoned with a palindrome: “MADAM, I’M ADAM.”
In 2009, Miller tried to get Adam enrolled in health insurance under New
Hampshire Medicaid. The plan was to get Adam sober, likely in an
inpatient program, and to get his knees fixed. But Adam was unable to
sign up for the insurance, and when the 2010 hiking season began, he
headed south. It was the last time Miller would see him. For the next
six seasons, Baltimore Jack held court on the trail. He told stories. He
gave advice. He drank.
And then he died.
On the morning of May 4, 2016, Jack was volunteering at a thru-hiker
hostel in Franklin, North Carolina. He’d complained to staff that he
felt out of sorts, and finally agreed to go to the hospital. He was
immediately sent to the ICU, where he died the next day.
Soon, the White Blaze forum and social media were overflowing with
messages of condolence, grief, and disbelief.
Erika Tarlin, who hadn’t seen her brother in a few years, learned of
Adam’s passing via her niece, who’d seen the news on Facebook: “I got a
frantic call from my sister’s daughter, who’d seen the post. She said to
me, ‘Uncle Adam is dead.’”
The same scenario repeated for dozens of others. Sisemore, Vincelette,
Mertz, and Whitcomb all learned that their friend was dead via social
media. “I was scrolling one morning,” Whitcomb says. “It had happened
just a few hours earlier. I couldn’t believe it.”
By then, Whitcomb had two small children. She says, “That was the first
time they saw me cry.”
Erika Tarlin has a question. “I understand that he became Baltimore
Jack,” she said. “But what I can’t understand is why that meant making
Adam disappear.”
The closest anyone has gotten to that answer came in 2016, when the
annual Appalachian Long Distance Hikers Association gathering was held
in Williamstown, Massachusetts. It turned into a large celebration and
remembrance of Baltimore Jack.
A controversy arose amid the online eulogies. Adam’s friends and Jack’s
friends saw things in fundamentally different ways. Some of the former
viewed Adam mostly as somebody who’d hurt others and squandered his
potential. The latter held Jack up as somebody who’d broken the shackles
of convention and found transcendence in nature, helping thousands of
others in the process.
One post on AppalachianTrail.com encapsulated the conflict. Objecting to
the idealization of Adam’s life, it read: “Adam Tarlin was from
Brookline, Massachusetts. He was a person whose actual existence seems
to be forgotten, somehow willfully overshadowed by a mythologized
legend. I guess it’s easier to see him as some kind of folk hero,
because it enabled people to ignore the fact that Adam was in incredible
pain and far too lonely than anyone should ever be...to those of you who
‘knew’ Adam, I implore you to please think about the people you meet,
whether hiking, or wherever you might meet someone, and think about why
they might be there. Please don’t mythologize the lifestyle of someone
who is lost and in pain. Please don’t glorify a homeless vagrant who has
nowhere to go. Please let someone you know who has an alcohol or drug
addiction know that you acknowledge their problem and their pain. Let
them know that you are there to help them if they are willing to seek
help. Help them get therapy, detox, rehab, find an AA meeting, whatever
they are willing to do. Don’t ply them with alcohol for the purpose of
YOU having a good time with them when they are totally lost to the world.”
The poster was Sharon Miller.
Many of the responses to the post were hostile, but Whitcomb reached out
to Miller, and Miller said she was relieved to know that there were
people who saw the real Adam, loved him, and would have done anything to
help him survive.
At the Williamstown gathering, the two worlds came together. Erika was
there. So was Adam’s daughter, Jillian, who is now 35 years old.
According to some who attended, after many stories were shared, the
service ended with an ovation. “It was such a tribute,” recalls Peoples.
“All of a sudden, his real family knew. He wasn’t a black sheep. He was
Baltimore Jack.”
As I mourned my friend and researched this story, I kept finding myself
crying for somebody I hadn’t seen for decades, somebody I’d fought with
during our time as classmates. It was, as everybody says, about Adam’s
good heart. You could feel it. You pulled for Adam. That Adam’s truer,
kinder self came out in Baltimore Jack is beyond question. The issue is
whether it was ultimately, for a man who died young, a good thing. We
all dream of living on the trail, out in the wild, with no
responsibilities. Adam Tarlin showed that that was possible. Baltimore
Jack showed that the reality isn’t as magical as it might seem. Those of
us who’ve struggled, or seen a loved one struggle, with mental illness
or substance abuse might see it another way. Over his life, Adam Tarlin
lost his past—his parents—and his future, his daughter. One wasn’t his
fault, one probably was.
As I worked on this story, I realized that one of the reasons Adam’s
choices felt so personal to me wasn’t just because I’d known him in
college, but because I’d experienced a version of the narrative myself:
my own father left when I was seven years old, deciding to travel the
world in search of rare birds. I remember wondering, as I grew up, where
he was and why he wasn’t with us. It’s something many of us rooted in
the outdoor world encounter: a parent who seems lost to their own
passions. I reconciled with my father when I was in my thirties, writing
a book about the experience, but such reconciliations are never
perfect. I had to understand that no matter how badly I wanted him to,
he’d never be the father I wished he had been. I had to love and forgive
him as he was.
In the days after his death, Adam’s daughter posted twice on his
Facebook page. The first post expressed anger and grief over the father
who’d left—both his family and this life—too soon. The second was
forgiving. When I started working on this story, Jillian, who is married
and works as a medical-surgical nurse in Boston, was hesitant to talk.
But I reached out again, and we had a moving conversation. She refused
to see herself as somehow wronged by the life her father had led.
She told me that Adam had made attempts to contact her over the years.
“He’d send me a box of books every Christmas and birthday,” she said.
“They were mostly books I wasn’t interested in—lots of medieval history.”
But she appreciated the effort. These gifts, she continued, indicated
that Adam was trying. She had a memory of riding the swan boats with him
in the Boston Public Garden, of him visiting her in Burlington, Vermont,
and—as Jack always did when he had an audience—holding court with her
friends and telling stories of life on the trail. She had visited him
and spent a few nights on Vincellete’s property while she was in her
early twenties.
She wanted to be closer. “I had this expectation that he needed to work
harder, that he needed to invest more in terms of time and travel to
forge this connection,” she says.
But in the end, Jillian says she realized she had to let that
expectation go. “The truth is that I love my dad, and I don’t have any
need to take him to task for anything. He did the things he needed to
do. And I know he loved me.”